Thursday, December 16, 2010

Here n There

My friend Gavin just left after an awesome 2 week visit and now I have 3 days to myself before my family comes (yay!). Medellin is literally glowing with pre-Christmas decorations, neon bulbs wrapped around palm trees, candle lit homes and flashing Jesus adornment. The main river is illuminated with lights, and I must say, though this type of extreme decoration isn’t really my thing, it’s beautiful to walk along the water at night.

I turned in my last paper of the semester on Friday (an analysis of international political economy, structural adjustment strategies and Colombian management challenges.... a head ache to begin with, but writing about all this in spanish really makes the brain hurt) and that afternoon Gavin and I took the bus, along with some Colombian, French and Spanish friends, to a steamy little town called Santa Fe de Antioquia for the annual International Film Festival. Even though the town is in the mountains, its about 20 degrees hotter than Medellin and has a distinct coastal feel to it; humid and sunny with a delicious breeze. The streets were bubbling with people, many students celebrating the end of finals, and lots of vendors selling fruits, sugarcane and fresh popcorn. This year’s festival was featuring French films w/ Spanish subtitles... an unfortunate combination for Gavin. We watched a couple movies and everyone tried to help translate, but ultimately me, Gavin and our friend Roger from Spain decided to spend the day exploring the town, walking along the river, lounging in hammocks, and hiking to some nearby waterfalls.


Two weeks ago I got back from a magical trip to el Chocó... the pacific coastal region of Colombia. My friend Andrea works for an NGO that delivers technology and computer classes to isolated communities and she invited me and Andres to come along for a week as volunteers. El Chocó is often referred to as the forgotten part of Colombia... its the country's poorest region (though extremely rich in culture and biodiversity) and is comprised of mostly African slave descendants with pockets of indigenous communities. Chocó is one of the wettest areas on earth... there seems to be a perpetual drizzle of water, which is hardly bothersome considering the intense heat and humidity. There is almost no infrastructure and the only way to get from town to town is via boat. The vast, thick jungle practically kisses the ocean, with occasional stretches of clear land where remote villages have sprouted. Even though by land it takes over 15 hours to get to Chocó given the next to non-existent road systems, our flight from Medellin was about 35 minutes. We flew over miles and miles of dense greenery and arrived at Bahia Solano, a little town on the beach. Next to the ‘airport’ (a 2 room shack) we found a woman cooking over a wooden fire and ate what might have been one of my most delicious meals in Colombia yet: fresh fish with lime juice, fried plantains, coconut rice and ice cold beer.


We stayed 2 nights in Bahia Solano and met with community members, played with kids, gave computer classes and explored the town. On the third day we all piled into a rickety motor boat, in the rain, and took a 3 hour backbreaking ride up the coast to another, even smaller and more remote community called Jurado. I looooved this town. It was so special with a really warm vibe and a very relaxed lifestyle.. not a single car in the whole village. Andrea met with a group of women to plan community building strategies and Andres and I moseyed around town with a local guy we befriended, ate fresh fish empanadas and swam in the ocean. From there we climbed into a little wooden canoe and rode 3 hours up a windy jungle river, until we reached a completely isolated indigenous community near the border of Panama. The town resembled something out of a movie; everyone was speaking their indigenous language (which is almost extinct), some women and men wore tribal face paint, and the only food is fish from the river and plantains from the trees. We actually happened to be there during a rare community feast when they were slaughtering a pig for celebration. People live in simple huts, they walk around barefoot, there are no toilets or running water and very little electricity. Andres and I played some games with the children, taught them basic English and learned the equivalent phrases in their local language using Spanish as a point of reference. It's hard to believe intact cultures like this still exist and thrive in such a globalized world dominated by international competition, cultural and physical exploitation, consumerism and facebook. It was fascinating to see a way of life so radically different from the one I know. As you may imagine, giving classes on the importance of technology somehow felt totally irrelevant.
I had night class the day we flew back to Medellin. My professor lectured on things like int’l trade regulations and discursive power of transnational corporations... topics that the communities we visited in Chocó (not to mention most people in the world, including those w. education) don’t understand .... yet these powerful, theoretical concepts have real consequences that shape the world and directly affect all of us. Sitting in the classroom with Colombia’s elite, listening to my professor deliver his powerpoint presentation and watching fellow students browse the internet and chat on their blackberries all felt quite confusing after such a poignant experience.

In fact, it all sort of feels like a dream now. It's hard to believe that Medellin and the river community we visited are part of the same country, and even harder to believe that this community and bustling New York City are part of the same world.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

It's clear I'm not the greatest at consistent blogging. At night when I’m lying in bed and processing the days events I often think about sharing them... but blogging requires some structure and discipline that I haven't developed with regularity. It's somewhat like sending an email to an old, dear friend. You have very much to say so you wait til the right moment comes up when you can sit down in calm and pour out your thoughts, but then the days pass by and soon its been months and you still haven’t written. Alas, I realized the perfect quiet moment might never come so as I listen to the pit-pattering of rain on my balcony and wait for some tea to come to a boil let me share with you invisible readers a bit about what's going on in this part of the world.

It’s hard to tell whether the rainy season is still lingering or if climate change is just doing its thing but either way almost every afternoon we’re greeted with a thunderstorm and a heavy downpour. On days when I haven’t forgotten my umbrella at home, I love the dramatic showers when the air is thick and still and the gray skies open up and the clouds free themselves of their heavy baggage. During these moments the Medellin canal fills up and rushes through the city, street vendors hustle to cover their stands, folks compete for shelter under whatever awning is closest and everyone surrenders to the wild, supreme force of mother nature. There’s something so cozy about being indoors during a tropical thunderstorm.. it reminds me a bit of curling up by a fire and watching December snowflakes float to the ground and light up a black new England night.

I’ve joined the couchsurfing community here in Medellin and we’ve formed a lovely little family of people from all over the world. Last week an Australian girl stayed at my house and we really hit it off. Couch surfing is a shot in the dark but this time was wonderful. I left a key by the door so she could let herself in while I was still at the university. I came home from class exhausted but curious to meet the new stranger that would be sharing my space. When I opened the door and heard reggae rhythms and saw my apartment lit with candles and smelling sweet with incense, I knew right away we’d click. The auzzie had helped herself to the kitchen and made cinnamon/sugarcane tea and pumpkin ginger soup for dinner. We shared stories and sipped tea and it was just so sweet to feel such a human connection with a total stranger.

I’ve been cooking every day. Believe it or not rice, beans, and chicken/pork/beef can only be exciting for so long. I love going to the market and coming home with whatever looks the most fresh and tickles my fancy at that very moment. Papaya, mango, avocado, and coconut have become pretty staple in my diet here. Last week my Indian friend showed me how to make authentic curry which, I must say, is heaven to the senses after months without spice. I’ve been experimenting a lot with sesame seeds, quinoa, coconut oil and yuka. Started making my own yogurt and almond milk and ghee and chai teas by boiling cinnamon sticks, black pepper corn, cloves, cardamom and fresh ginger. Delicious. My most recent favorite concoction is a cucumber, mint, coconut, ginger smoothie. Its ironic because this part of the world is favorable to growing almost any fruit or vegetable yet Colombians enjoy a rather uniform and limited diet. There are only two organic co-ops (that I know of at least) in Medellin and I try to support them as much as possible. Most of the food here is genetically hampered and saturated with all sorts of chemicals, herbicides and pesticides to increase productivity and freshness, especially for those products being shipped overseas. I'm trying to link up with the Asociación Campesina Agroecológica, a small group of local farmers who deeply care about protecting the land and the environment and believe in cultivating natural and sustainable crops.


Mornings are my favorite time of day. Most days I wake up early to do yoga and go for gentle walks or jogs around my neighborhood. Ive always been an early riser but there is something really special about this time of day in south america when the sun is bright and strong, the markets open with sprawling spreads of fruits and vegetables, women sweep their front porches and pause to wave at passer-by-ers, vendors slowly wheel carts of fresh avocados and plantains down the street, elderly folks sip black coffee under shaded trees, the honks of cars and motorcycles and morning traffic fills the air and little by little the world comes alive.

On Monday Im traveling to Chocó, the pacific coastal region, to breathe in the jungle and volunteer with a friends’ NGO. Ill share more when I get back.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

algid Andean adventures...













For those of you who upon hearing the world ‘Colombia’ conjure up images of tropical palm trees and pristine beaches, scantily clothed tanned mamas, and sizzling nightclubs bumping pure salsa and island rhythms, think again. (ehem, these couldn’t possibly be my own pre-conceived notions..). Well, that scene does exist, perhaps along the Caribbean coast or on the streets of Cali, but much of Colombia is made up of cool, mountainous terrain where instead of flip flops and a sleeveless top, the most suitable outfit is a winter hat, a raincoat and long paints. Last week Liza, Astrid (my danish friend) and I ventured up into the rugged highlands of la Zona Cafetera... the part of Colombia where some of the best coffee in the world comes from, and where breathtaking mountains make up the panoramic vista, their peaks disappearing into white clouds and blue skies. We wandered around little towns, ate local trucha fish and chatted with women selling arepas rellenas on the street (thick fresh corn tortilla-like yumminess filled with chicken, cheese, and various other tasty fillings), drank delicious coffee, hiked for hours in the Valle de Cocora, and summited Nevado de Ruiz - an active volcano over 5,000 meters tall (16,000 + feet). Getting to the top was a day long mission that entailed driving most of the way up with periodic stops for hot meals and coca-tea to help our bodies adjust to the altitude. Sheepishly - given the fact I grew up with icey New England winters - I have to say I don’t think I’ve ever felt so cold in my life! After the summit, we decided to take the chill out of our bones by soaking in some delicious hot springs in the valley of Manizales.

After a long day of driving on bumpy roads, climbing up snow peaked mountains and then relaxing in steaming hot water, we all got to the bus station exhausted and ready to get home. Unfortunately, however, due to careless calculations, we missed the last bus to Medellin. This sucked, considering I had literally no cash and class at 9:00am the next day. A grumpy and stubborn driver of a 6 person minivan offered to take us to Medellin but only if we payed double the price of each ticket to compensate for the other 3 empty seats in his van. With our backs against the wall and after considering all other options (i.e. spending the night in a hostel which would cost about the same) we begrudgingly accepted his offer. His bad vibes and negative energy should have sent off an alarm from the start, but the combination of anxiousness, altitude, and sleepiness got the best of our senses. Three hours into the trip the van allegedly ran out of oil and our dear driver friend left us defenseless in the rain (and with a good chunk of our money) to make it home. Three gringas (two rubias) on the side of a Colombian highway in the middle of el campo at 2:00 am isn’t the most favorable scenario one could find herself in. We ended up hitchhiking back to Medellin and luckily got picked up by a generous and friendly fruit-seller who dropped us off safe and sound at our doorsteps.

Liza left on thursday. We had a wonderful two weeks together full of yoga, cooking, dancing, good conversations, hiking, jewelry- making. Now that she’s gone my apartment suddenly feels empty. I basically dropped all commitments/routine for two weeks (which was well worth it) but now its time to get back to reality!

Monday, September 13, 2010

A new home!

View from my balcony...
painted apartment
Hanging by the river...
mountain hike view

One week into my new apartment and it feels great! The smell of fresh paint has dissipated (see pictures) and little by little i’m furnishing this place. So far I have a mattress, a gas stove, a little table, a wooden desk which I bought off a woman for $15 bucks down the street, and a used refrigerator (which is indeed a score, considering its hard to find much second hand or used anything in this part of the world. Colombians seem to like things new..). I’m on the 13th floor and I have a little balcony with a beautiful view of the city, a small herb garden, and just enough room for me to sit outside and drink tea in the morning sunshine.
There is a wonderful market 5 minutes walk from my home full of local fruits, vegetables, cheeses, flowers, good quality meat and fish, and fresh baked bread. Ive been going almost daily and I love to chat with the various shop keepers, who often let me try a piece of cheese gratis, or will stick a bunch of bananas - complimentary - into my bag after purchasing something from their stand. I’ve been having some stomach issues lately - first I thought it was a typical travelers bug, some parasite I picked upfrom eating street food - but the pain has persisted for over a week and its looking more like a case of “gastritis”, an inflammation of the stomach which is spread by a ferocious little bacteria called “Hyperbactor Pylori”. Apparently over half of the population here suffers from this gastritis and everyone seems to know about it (if they don’t have it themselves). A man at the market selling herbs and spices advised me to drink a lot of papaya juice, eat fresh granadilla, and drink calendula tea, which I’ve been doing. He also gave me a bunch of dried manzanilla flowers (camomile) and sent me on my way. Seems to soothe the pain and I certainly prefer this healing technique to antibiotics..

My classes are going well, though I must say its a struggle trying to focus on school when there are so many temptations luring me out of the classroom. Right now there is a jazz festival going on in Medellin as well as a ‘Festival of Books and Culture’ which features different talks, lectures, open mics, and poetry readings each night. I've also become a regular at an amazing live salsa bar Tuesday nights downtown. Yet despite these distractions, I managed to buckle down and crank out my first paper this week. I only hope the professor is able to make it past all the grammatical errors and grasp what I was trying to say!

Aside from academic courses, I’m dancing with a folkloric group once a week and taking a jewelry making class that works with copper, silver, and brass. Its really fun and mostly comprised of retired women. The class is Monday afternoons for 4 hours, much of which is spent sharing stories about the week, gossiping about life, ooing and aahing over each others creative abilities to produce rings, necklaces, earings, and bracelets of elaborate design. We also take a (very necessary of course!) 15 minute break in the middle to sip tinto (black coffee) and eat pastries. It's pretty fantastic.

I’ve been going to weekly Rotary lunches which always feature different guest speakers talking on various topics (health, environment, art, social issues). I'm able to follow the talks much better now than two months ago, when the speeches all seemed so fast and overwhelming. The Rotarians have been so wonderful in helping me get connected and settled. Thursdays, after Rotary meetings, I take the bus an hour outside of Medellin to teach English. The town, "Limonar", is very low income and belongs to a municipal south of Medellin up in the mountains with a spectacular view of the city. Everyone is so welcoming and generous and I’m always greeted with a sandwich or a glass of fresh juice. This is becoming such an important part of my experience here; it’s so fun getting to know the other teachers and the wonderful students. Confirms my belief that education is an ebb and flow relationship in which the teaching and learning is mutual.

On a lighter note, after walking by so many beauty salons each day, today I let myself wander inside one and get my nails painted. I guess the feminine aesthetic here is wearing off on me. Many women go weekly to the peluqueria (granted, it’s only about $8 for a combined pedicure and manicure, so its an understandable investment, considering the experience comes with a foot massage, and access to countless trashy magazines). Beauty and femininity are very deeply valued in Colombia and it seems there’s an almost cultural duty for women to dress nicely, wear make-up, and grow their hair long. (Note: I’m making gross generalizations to which many people don’t belong, but having studied sociology I can’t help but analyze how socialized gender/beauty standards have shaped the culture around physical attractiveness). I don’t always feel super feminine... not sure if its because I’m lacking intense amounts of blush and eye-liner or because I’m about a foot taller than most of the population. The other day a women from the rotary club told me, “Sonya you need to learn how to wear make up” and later, upon looking at my unkempt hands, “the men are not going to be very impressed if you keep your fingernails like that”. While I appreciate her genuine concern for my well being, based on the smeared bright blue eye shadow and hot pink lipstick she wears on the regular, I’m taking the advice with a grain of salt.

My friend Liza from Northamton is coming for two weeks on Thursday! She found a cheap ticket last minute and decided to come on a whim. We’re gonna do some hiking up in the mountains and travel to coffee country. Very much looking forward to having someone from home to share and process this experience with.

Missing Massachusetts right now, especially the beautiful, delicious crispness of a sunny September day. Hope all of you in New England are eating lots of apples and taking time to just enjoy the changing of the seasons.

Oh! and Sh’na Tovah! happy Jewish new year to all :0)

Ran into this group of musicians practicing in the streets of Santa Fe de Antioquia...

Friday, August 13, 2010

Feria de las Flores


The one month marker for my time in Medellin has come and gone and I’m beginning to develop a rhythm of life here. At first I was feeling a bit like a fish out of water, lonely and frustrated with how long things take, the complications of latin american bureaucracy, etc... but my wise old man once told me, “you’ll learn to just laugh at the process and stop fighting it”, and its very true (thanks pops). The US culture of instant satisfaction, immediate service, finger-snapping speediness - instilled in us straight out the womb and intensified by high-tech gadgets such as ipods, iphones, and facebook - just doesn’t make sense here. Time in general is a much more elastic and fluid concept. Things never really start “on time”. Students stroll into class 20 min late without even a blink of an eye from the professor. I remember first realizing how flexible time is when I showed up to take class with a folkloric dance group my second week here in Medellin. I was told to come at 4:00 and that afternoon I hustled to show up on time, walked in the door at 4:05 sweaty and disheveled, embarrassed to be late on my first day - only to find an empty studio. Folks started strolling in around 4:30, and it was only after about 15 minutes of hugging, kissing, saying hello and exchanging stories about the day that people changed into their dance clothes. Such is the pace of life around here. And I like it!

Medellin is a really interesting place. The people are super friendly, food muy delicioso, beers watery - but cold - so i can't complain. At every corner there are stands full of fresh pineapple, mango, watermelon, papaya, melon, banana and the list goes on. Music is always flowing out of cars, corner shops and apartment balconies and is a delicious mix of salsa, vallenato, cumbia, merengue. Colombians can really bump and grind, too. Last weekend I went to a club and was blown away by all the beautiful people. The women in particular are stunning, though I’ve never seen such massive amounts of plastic surgery. Esp in the booty. This place puts Maimi's South Beach to shame. Didnt even know it was possible to get butt-implants?

Im ready to explore the mountains and do some hiking. Saturday Im going camping 'cause its a 3 day weekend. Seems like Colombia is full of holidays, festivals, celebrations, and assorted fiestas... often giving tribute to a particular saint. Last week was the annual Feria de las Flores, a 7 day celebration in Medellin comprised of various concerts, festivals, and parades. Many of the mountainous regions surrounding Medellin are made up of communities whose primary economy is based on the cultivation and exportation of flowers. I took a day trip to Santa Elena, a little pueblo famous for its contribution to the Feria de Las Flores. On the last day of the festival, citizens of this tiny town marched through the city of Medellin carrying huge wooden baskets full of fresh cut roses, lillies, carnations, orchids, daisies and lots of other colorful, nice smelling plants.

Aside from the festivities, Medellin is full of energy because of a recent change in presidency. Conservative Juan Manuel Santos was inaugurated last week to replace his predecessor Alvaro Uribe. Uribe's administration (to which Santos belonged) was revered by many and famous for bringing a myriad of positive changes to the country particularly in regards to national security and the economy. Fifteen years ago this place was ridden with violence, largely isolated from the travelers that were coming to tour neighboring countries. Colombia in general is much safer today, though guerilla organizations (Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC) and the Ejercito Popular de Liberacion (EPL) the big ones) are still alive and active. In fact a bomb just went off in Bogota on Thursday and it's suspected that the FARC is responsible. Yet despite occasional terrorist attacks, the country has a solid and growing economy and is beginning to bustle with tourists, backpackers, study abroad-ers, and foreign investers. Supporters of the new president seem confident that he will continue to make Colombia a safer place. Critics of Santos, however, peg him as an elitist whose focus is too much on economic policies that benefit the rich and not enough on social welfare, human rights issues, and the eradication of poverty. It’s still too early to tell how Santos’ term will play out but the gap between rich and poor here is staggering.

For those who may be interested, here’s a cool blog that offers interesting and relatively unbiased analysis of latin american politics:
http://www.joshuafrens-string.com/

Still trying to find my own apartment. More updates later!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Feliz Cumpleanos, Colombia!

In honor of escaping from the clutches of brutal Spanish conquistadors two hundred years ago, Colombia celebrated the bicentennial of its independence on Tues. It was quite a spectacle. During the day I went to an all day long concert which featured Colombian rock and salsa bands. At night there were fireworks over el Rio Medellin followed by lots of dancing and partying all around the city. Proceeding the show, the streets of Medellin were full of swerving motorcyclists, crowded buses, honking taxis and stuffed cars with people sticking their heads and limbs out of the windows waving flags and singing along to various songs. With everyone trying to make their way to the riverbanks, Gloria (the woman Im renting a room from) and I decided to avoid the masses and climb to the top of a tall building near downtown where we could watch the lights in peace from a distance. The sun was setting and as we waited for the fireworks to begin the sky around us transformed from a light blue to a mysterious purple, blotched with luminous white clouds and silhouettes of dark mountain peaks. What began as a casual conversation between me and Gloria turned into a deep, philosophical exchange about love and life and peace. It was a really special night to say the least. I seem to have forgotten my photo uploader at home (doh!) but as soon as I find a way to upload pics, Ill post some.

There is a wonderful social and cultural center downtown called the Centro Colombo Americano which was founded by the late Paul Bardwell, a beloved man who was born and raised in - believe it or not - Hatfield, MA, right up the road from Northampton. The center works a lot with poorer communities in and around Medellin and offers scholarships to Afro-Colombian and indigenous students from all over the country. I met a bunch of the students at a free English conversation club last week and they’re all super cool. On Wednesday I played basketball with one of the guys who was obviously way better then me but after getting my butt kicked pretty severely he had the decency to let me win a short game of one on one.

Theres so much I want to share about the short time I've spent here in Medellin, but above everything I feel compulsed to express my gratitude for being granted this opportunity. Despite the small mishaps that are bound to confront a foreigner in a new country (like struggling to open a bank account, messing up conversions in a different currency, getting on the wrong bus home, etc ) there isn’t a day where I don’t wake up feeling totally blessed to be here. I am So Lucky. I can’t believe that I have this year to take classes in Spanish, explore a new country, taste new foods, meet new people. Whenever I feel lonely or frustrated or homesick - which surely I do at times - I try to just take it easy and trust the process. Time is such a bizarre and impossible concept to grasp. Its unbelievable how fast the minutes, days, weeks fly by and before I know it a year will have passed. Life is short.... and at the risk of sounding new agey... why not try to squeeze the most out of everyday? There's a lot to learn even (especially/) from difficult times. On that note, and in honor of Colombia's independence, growth, celebration and peace, I want to discipline myself this year to focus on the positive elements of each day - and I challenge everyone reading this blog to do the same!

Friday, July 16, 2010

First week in Medellin







I arrived safe and sound last Tuesday to the beautiful city of Medellin! Nestled in the Aburra Valley, Medellin is the capital of the state of Antioquia and is said to be one of the most beautiful cities in South America. If you can imagine taking an ice-cream scoop out of the Andes, and building a city in the gap, that's a bit what Medellin looks like. The towering mountains surround la ciudad and their lofty peaks stick out above gray, misty rainclouds. It's pretty majestic here, despite the fact that there has been a constant drizzle since I arrived. Some people tell me the rain is typical of the winter season, others blame global warming. Either way, I was surprised to find the temperature so cool and am starting to think I packed more for Cali or Cartagena where its super hot and sunny. The sun rises around 6 am and sets around 6:00 pm - which, as many of you know, is the type of natural rhythm that suites me best!
The people from this region of Colombia are known as paisas and are renowned for being hospitable, generous, gregarious (and of course - perhaps most famously - for having very beautiful women). The family I'm renting a room from is really wonderful. Its a single mother with two daughters, 23 and 26, both of whom are in the process of becoming doctors. They have a simple apartment in a very central part of town and about a 10 minute walk from EAFIT University where I'll be studying. Included in my rent, aside from nice company and good spanish practice, is breakfast, dinner, laundry and free internet access. Not bad. Gloria, la dona de la casa, is a very sweet and motherly women who speaks no english and is an amazing cook... I can already feel my pants fitting tighter after 3 days. A common side dish here which is SO GOOD is chicharrones... basically greesy fried pig chunks- not unlike bacon, except thicker, fatter, juicier and... well tastier. That combined with avocados, fried plantains, sugary coffee, postres...shoot. At this rate it wont be long till I start rockin' only stretchy, baggy clothes. Tonight I was going to hit the town with some people I met at school, but ended out staying home to chat with Gloria and her daughters. We talked for hours about Medellin and how it has transformed from the days of violence and kidnapping to a very safe and stable city. From what I understand, when this city was Pablo Escobars stomping ground it was a total mess... people couldn't leave their homes without fear of getting killed. By the way, a great movie to see about Colombia/Medellin/narco soccer/Pablo Escobar, etc... is "The Two Escobars" a documentary made by two brothers from Northampton actually. Really incredible. It is going to air in Medellin for the first time on Sunday which will be interesting.
Last Thursday I went to my first Rotary lunch. My host sponsor, Tamila, is a fascinating woman who is going out of her way to make me feel welcome here. Originally from Azerbaijan, she came to Medellin after marrying a Colombian man 20 years ago and taught physics at a public university here for many years. She is clearly very well connected in the city and runs in the most upper crust circles. The Rotary here, and in Latin America in general from what I understand, is a very elite club. This definitely came through during lunch yesterday. The club that is sponsoring me here is comprised of predominantly very wealthy, fair-skinned, older, and male members. The class divide in Colombia is so strong and its fascinating to have access to such a powerful slice of society. I know the Rotary will be a great resource for me throughout this year and I feel indebted to them for providing me with this incredible opportunity. At the same time, with such a built in network and with so many people already reaching out to me, I know i'll have to be conscious of creating a diverse experience with a community of people around me who I can really relate to.
I had to give a short and scary speech in front of everyone explaining how I got the ambassadorial scholarship, why I decided to come to Colombia, etc. Luckily everyone was super friendly and sweet though and already several people have invited me to their fincas (country homes). One young Rotarian man offered to take me around town tomorrow via public transport in order to give me a sense of the bus system, metro, etc.
Alas, its almost midnight and I'm ready to collapse. Might be hard cause there's loud Karaoke music and the sounds of drunken laughter from the streets below floating through my window.

Tomorrow night I'm on a mission to find a good salsa bar.