This morning I had a long conversation with my classmates about the current political and social state of Colombia. There has been a frightening erosion of security in the last few months, much of which is heightened along the atlantic and pacific coasts (in the last two weeks more than 10 people have been murdered (one decapitated) in Quibdó, the capital city of the Choco department; there have been bomb threats and mini explosions, and major roads are closed down due to hijackings by the FARC. In this light, it's hardly shocking that the US state department recently reissued its travel warning to Colombia. To a foreigner living in a middleclass neighborhood of Medellín, attending one of the city’s best private schools and surrounded by hard working and educated friends, its easy to think that Colombia is rapidly moving away from its legacy of violence, poverty and warfare. (After all, Colombia has one of the fastest growing economies in Latin America, in 2011 the government signed a long awaited Free-Trade Agreement with the United States, and the city of Medellín is increasingly considered a model for urban development and social transformation). But according to my friends this morning, the sense of security and stability is nothing more than an illusion. “We’re walking on thin ice”, one classmate said, shaking his head. “This place is still jodido. I mean, I love my country. Colombians are some of the best people in the world, but we if we don’t have security we have nothing. And we don’t have security”. Sure, citizens of Medellín no longer face the same brutality they lived through in the nineties when an average of 20 people a day were murdered and no one was exempt from the risk of kidnappings, car bombings, stop-light robberies and murders. But the violence and corruption that plagued the country a decade ago has long from disappeared (as much as many Uribistas would like to believe otherwise); it’s simply been diverted from the rich and bougie neighborhoods and almost entirely concentrated in the poor communes. Narco-traffickers still reside in all parts of the city, including the most luxurious areas, but it’s the microlevel hustlers from the ghettos who provide the image of drug dealers and take the slack for Colombia’s current predicament. Perhaps it’s hard to imagine that folks who speak 2 or 3 languages, drive BMW’s, go on vacation overseas and have studied in some of North America and Europe’s finest institutions are involved in drug trafficking. But in fact, it’s actually the big-time players, those who may be upfront prestigious business owners, PhD professors, or CEO’s of important corporations, that are deeply involved in Colombia’s drug trade (if not entirely running it). “Narco trafficking is the engine that drives this country, Sonya. It is the basis of our economy, and more people than you can imagine are involved in some form,” my friends told me, with a focused, lets-break-this-down-for-the-gringa look. As much as I’ve studied the drug conflict in Colombia, the truth is it’s still hard to fully grasp just how intertwined it is in the economic, social, political, and cultural realities of everyday life here. Take, for instance, the aesthetic of beauty in Medellín. It is a social conception that comes directly from the Pablo Escobar era and the legacy of cocaine cartels. Drug lords in the 80’s who went from rags to riches would pay for their girlfriends to get breast implants, nose jobs, lypo-suction, etc and soon the cookie-cutter barbie style beauty became a general symbol of wealth and status around the city. This has not disappeared. I should be used to plastic surgery by now, considering its everywhere and on everyone - including men - but I still get thrown off every now and then by copious amounts of silicone. Last night at the gym for instance, I took a spinning class and was blown away by all the straightened blond-streaked hair, dangling earrings, and exaggeratedly fake boobs flopping around beside me (at the GYM. Just imagine what a night club here looks like).

Yet, despite the complexity of problems that exist here, It’d be impossible to deny that this country is moving forward. How could it not with its vibrant energy, breath-taking natural beauty, and millions of smart and creative people? I guess the key is trying to keep a holistic perspective; it’s naive to think narco-trafficking and violence are woes of the 90's, and excessively cynical to believe there’s no space for transformation. Ultimately, the long term development of this country will depend on effective education initiatives, military control over FARC terrorist activities, and international policy change (i.e the legalization of marijuana and cocaine. I know, highly unlikely, but I think its one of the only feasible ways of ending the violence and warfare that is crippling the Americas. As long as there is demand, someone will do whatever it takes to make sure there is supply). As United-Stateseans, we too have to critically analyze and take responsibility for the current drug conflict, which I believe is at the root of Colombia's massive crisis of the state (marked by poverty, failed democracy, social inequality, unemployment, social exclusion, lack of participation in formal education systems, and youth involvement in illegal markets). For some reason, the stigma associated with cocaine is placed on the producers, providers and hustlers (mostly poor latinos) rather than the consumers (often middle class and rich North Americans and Europeans). This is of course wrapped up in all sorts of racist/classist paradigms and complex power structures, which allow the United States as the world hegemon to get away with lack of accountability for the destruction left in the wake of unfair policies (nothing new for us).

For more information check out: http://www.stratfor.com/weekly/colombias-new-counterinsurgency-plan?utm_source=freelist-f&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20120329&utm_term=sweekly&utm_content=readmore&elq=45d91061a6f946b39be899a82f01c47b

On another note, I’m now full swing into my last semester of school. In december I graduated from a certificate program at EAFIT University in Geopolitics. It was an amazing experience overall, but in order to finish the Masters I had to switch institutions (EAFIT doesn’t offer Masters programs in Political Studies - only certificate programs). So in January I began classes at la Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana (UPB), a catholic and rather conservative university a 15 minute bike ride from my house. Classes start every day at 6:00 am. To be honest, getting up before dawn isn’t particularly fun, but the truth is there’s actually something lovely about waking up when the rest of the world is still asleep, having a cup of coffee, and jumping on my bike while the sky is cool and dark and the birds are just beginning to sing. I love the sensation of cruising through the empty streets of my neighborhood with the breeze against my face and watching the sun rise as the city slowly comes alive. After class, I usually head to the library to grind on my thesis. Im writing it on youth participation in public policy in Medellín's most precarious neighborhoods through Participatory Budgeting, a relatively new democratic process in which regular citizens work together with the municipal office in deciding how to allocate 5% of the city’s overall budget. Its a really cool form of community activism and participation in a society where most citizens, especially the poor, have historically been isolated from political decision making. I’m still working for my old boss on the side and teaching private English classes on Monday and Thursday afternoons. In general, life this semester is much more low-key, which is suiting me fine as I focus on finishing school. Weekends are dedicated to spending time with my honey, being outside, and cooking. Last weekend Jose and I made home-made corn tortillas, soy milk from scratch (wayy too long and arduous of a process) and a Coq au Vin dinner for a group of friends. Most weekends are pretty mellow though, and sometimes I find myself in bed by 11 pm with a book, which has its own charm. Sunday nights I usually play pick up soccer with friends. If we’re lucky our French friend Claire invites us over afterwards to indulge in one of her killer home-made deserts. (Last weekend it was a passion-fruit cheese-cake to die for). This weekend i’m heading to a national Rotary conference in Manizales, a city high in the hills of coffee country. Ex-president Alvaro Uribe will be giving a conference on the current state and future of Latin America. The following week is "semana santa" (holy week) and Im going camping with a group of buddies to the northern most tip of Colombia - la Guajira - where desert meets ocean. My cousin Jordan is coming to the coastal city of Cartagena with a bunch of his friends so we'll spend a night with them along the way. Can't wait! It's always so exciting when I get to share part of this experience with people from home :)

(Below: at a themed dinner party w/ Rotarians and fellow ambassadorial scholar)

The weeks are flying and before I know it this semester will be over. I wish life didn’t go by quite so fast! I am trying to soak up every last moment of this experience and just enjoy, without letting the anxiety of my thesis, or the “what comes next?” question, or the daily stresses of life take up too much space.